Dominica Travelers Insights
Dominica is all about discovery. Much of its 360 rivers, tropical forests, and mountains have yet to be explored. Sightseeing, trekking, hiking, and diving are among the best in the Caribbean. But the true nature of Dominica is a gentle peace; tranquility in a land of towering mountains and cascading rivers. Stepping back in time, you are miles away from the modern world and its fast pace, time moves slowly on Dominica and that’s the way Dominicans like it.
Dominicans are generous and very hospitable. They respect the land that gives them so much and are quick to point out that in Dominica you can live with very little; grow your own vegetables, keep your own chickens and fish off the banks. Vegetables and fruits grow everywhere. Two large avocados cost me less than a US dollar.
Not motivated by profit, Dominicans are inventive; they experiment and simply do things for the joy of it. This tiny town of 70,000 in 290 square miles, produces its own beer, rum, and coffee, was famous for Dominica’s straw mats, and exported grapefruit and bananas to the world. In the valleys, sugar cane is grown, crushed, and processed into high-quality Dominica rum.
Dominica’s unique quality of life attracts people. Gilles, a French businessman escaped to paradise, as he puts it, and opened the Sea Lounge with the “Best French Cuisine in the Caribbean,” says Gilles. “I got to the point where I had taken charge of my responsibilities, my daughter thought about her education and now it was time for me. Dominica appealed because she wanted to get away from the rat race and do something worthwhile where it could matter. I like the spirit of the people and the place.” Dinner in the Sea Lounge was the highlight. The food was excellent and at the end of the meal Gilles served complementary spiced rum. He Says He Likes To Exceed Your Expectations!
I came to Dominica to meet with tourism officials to see how we could work with the tourism authority and provide technology and marketing services to the island. The first night we ran into Etta Deschamps by chance—she was sitting next to us at La Maison as we ate blackened fish and creole shrimp. She and her husband established their film company, ZoomFilmCompany.com, in Dominica. “It’s alternative and authentic,” she said of Dominica. It has clearly inspired her work.
Travel writer, Paul Crask, also fell in love with it. American executives are finding out for the right reasons and escaping to his mountain home. “It won’t be overdeveloped,” says Colin Piper, director of the Dominica Tourism Board, “we prefer to keep things simple and preserve the unique experience that is Dominica.” .
I hope Dominica doesn’t become another Antigua, Barbados and Saint Lucia where there are hotels and condos everywhere. Not your typical Caribbean beach vacation destination. There are several white-sand beaches in the north, but the land is private and developers don’t flock to it because there is no international airport and no one wants to tear down a mountain to build one.
The roads are narrow and often steep, with many curves. It takes an hour and a half to drive from the airport to Roseau, the capital: 27 miles. It is not about driving on a highway, you drive through the jungle, sometimes a rainforest or a banana plantation, on the edge of a mountain with a panoramic view of the ocean coast.
You come to Dominica to escape and rejuvenate in nature. Paddling the Indian River takes you to a new place of peace, tranquility and character. It’s Dominica, the island of nature, a brief moment to escape, step on the gas and enjoy the calm of nature while paddling up the river. The constant rhythm of the oars plunging into the water is almost hypnotic, it’s so relaxing. On this island you’ll sleep in the comfort of a boutique hotel, elegant without being over the top, or climb up to your treetop cabana at the Jungle Bay resort.
Sitting on your oceanfront balcony at Calibishie Cove, with the wind blowing across your face, is the essence of relaxation. I felt my mind physically let go of a mountain of thoughts, and for the first time in weeks, I began to relax. Hazel the caretaker was the perfect host and she cooked excellent peas and coconut chicken rice using the provisions we had brought. Calibishe Cove has both apartments and suites without kitchens. We had reserved a deluxe suite with adjoining rooms and wrap around balconies. It didn’t have a kitchen, which was great, Hazel’s cooking was much better. Breakfast was delivered by van, with wide smiles and fresh orange juice courtesy of Helen.
We took the opportunity to walk down the 200 steps to the river estuary and the beach below our suite. Trevor and his son joined us on the beach. Trevor, a UK boxing champion, moved to Dominica a few years ago. The steps, the river, the sea and the natural obstacles of hanging logs and trees have become the perfect gym. He came to Dominica to get away from the hustle and bustle, he had wanted to start a boxing association but now plans to train boxers on the island. “I had the best training of my life here,” he said, “you know it’s the conditioning of your mind that makes the difference, Dominica shuts you down.” His agent got him a fight in the UK with a nice prize money. “I shouldn’t have taken it since I was completely out of training,” he tells us. But Dominica’s magic had sharpened his mind; beach running and shadow boxing had toned him up. He scored a knockout in the first round.
We were going around the island by taxi. It seemed like the best thing so we could focus on taking photos and notes, but in hindsight, I’d rent a car. A 4×4 companion rents for $40.25 a day. A taxi is so much more and you don’t have the freedom to go your own way or stop on a whim, to just sit and watch and enjoy the scene. Our taxi driver was a 27 year old Dominican with a family of two girls and a baby. He was looking forward to Titiwi’s picnic and barbecue on Sunday. We did an around the island trip in two days, starting from Roseau, driving south to Scots Head, then up the mountain to Jungle Bay and Caribbean territories, stopping for the night in Calibishie.
We agreed to be picked up at 11 on Sunday and headed to Fort Shirley in Portsmoth. The fort has been beautifully restored by a project headed by Dr. Lennox Honeychurch. Lennox is a poet and historian. I read his prose about the ocean a few years ago and I still remember the gist of it. He inspired something I wrote. “March, oh! Rolling sea, with your messages of time.”
On the way back to Roseau we stopped at the Titiwi festival in Layou. The Titiwi are a species of tiny eels. They are fried, baked, steamed, smoked or stewed in the style of Creole cuisine, very fishy like anchovies, a tasty delicacy with boiled bread, Bello chutney and Kabuli beer. What impressed me the most was the friendly people and their warm hospitality.
Dominica Fish Festival and Dominica Fish Bake and Island Creole Cuisine
What you will notice on Dominica is color, bright and vibrant but never flashy. Nature abounds with its color. Along the paths, wildflowers spread a carpet of red, blue, white and yellow over a tapestry of green. Towns and villages come alive with bright greens, yellows, reds and all shades of blue, and in fishing villages well-kept fishing boats are painted with character.
Pink fishing boats say as much about the owner as it does the boat! This is an island of individuals, about personal choice and the determination to be different. It is for discerning travelers who are not the typical tourist. It is, and I hope it always will be, a treasure to be discovered hidden in time, where the values of yesteryear endure.