How to stain wooden furniture

Learning to stain wooden furniture is not difficult. You don’t have to be a master cabinetmaker to breathe new life into your furniture, which may have become dull and dull over the years, thanks to common household grime and body oils, deadly enemies of fine furniture.

Unfortunately, many of us turn to commercial waxes and polishes in an unsuccessful effort to reverse the process. These only make things worse, creating new layers for dirt to cling to.

The only way to restore the finish is to go back to square one and re-stain the original wood. This means removing the old finish and building from there.

It’s a labor-intensive process, to be sure. But it can also be a labor of love, if done right.

First you have to remove the old stain. To do this, you need to apply two-part hydrogen peroxide, which is available in the paint department of your home improvement store. Please follow the instructions carefully and make sure you have a well-ventilated space. Be sure to use a rag to catch any spills.

Apply the mixture to the furniture. You can use a brush for seams and joints and a sponge for flat areas. After removing the stain, follow the instructions on the package to neutralize the bleach so that it stops the bleaching process. Follow up with a vinegar wash, just to be sure.

The wood will take about two days to dry. When you’re done, sand it down with extra-fine grit sandpaper. Brush off any remaining dust, including that left in the joints and details. Remove them with a brush.

Now that the wood has returned to its original color, it’s time to stain it. If the wood is cherry, mahogany, maple, or a rare wood, you may want to simply oil it to bring out the grain. If it’s a light wood, such as beech, birch, poplar, or pine, you may want to stain it. The same goes for oak, though it can also benefit from oil alone.

There are many types of stains out there – oil-based, water-based, NGR – there’s no right or wrong. Each has its own strengths and challenges. If you’re not sure, ask your local paint store clerk what would be best for your situation.

Before applying a stain, test it first. If you can, buy a short piece of the same type of wood so you can try several different stains. This is important, as the color and finish shown on the packaging is not necessarily what you will get. There are simply too many variables in staining, including the porosity of the wood, the type of stain, the number of coats and the thickness of the coats, etc.

The stain can be applied with a brush or rag. If it’s an oil stain, you’ll need to let it sit for about 10-15 minutes before wiping it off. If you’re using a brush, remember to go with the grain in long strokes and try not to overlap. This will cause darker streaks in the stain. If the finish isn’t dark enough for you, let it dry and apply a second or even third coat. Each will create a darker finish. Just remember that you can’t go back. There’s no way to remove a layer if you think it’s too dark without removing it completely and starting over.

Once the furniture is stained to your liking, it’s time to seal it. You want to add a final coat of shellac, sealer, or varnish to prevent the wood from absorbing other liquids, such as an accidentally spilled glass of wine. Again, check with the paint store clerk about what to use. Some sealers don’t work well on specific types of stains. After sealing, sand the wood one more time and you’re done.

Staining wood furniture can be a lot of work, but if you really want your favorite piece of furniture to stay in your favor, it’s a great way to make the old look new again.