Installation of your own yacht cabin heaters
Cabin heaters can transform winter boating and, provided you have the tools, space and time, they’re also relatively easy to install. Winter is an ideal time to install a boat heater. It can make cold mornings a thing of the past, with the promise of comfortable nights on board in a deserted anchorage. And if you have winterized your boat by removing the cushions and equipment, it will be much easier to install a heater.
Choosing a heater depends on the size of your boat and your budget. It is better to have a small heater working hard than a large one that can produce coke, like an idle diesel engine.
Where to install?
If you have the skills, the tools, the space and the time and want to install a heater yourself, the main consideration is the routing of the ductwork. Where do you want heat? Is there enough space to work? If you can, cut conduit holes through the wood panels instead of the GRP frames. Not only is it easier to drill, but more importantly, it won’t compromise the internal structure of the boat.
The duct routing defines where the heater can be installed. Some heaters must be specifically mounted horizontally or vertically. Placing your heater close to the fuel tank and batteries will make your life easier.
If you can’t use the supplied mounting plate, design another to ensure heater location allows for ductwork without sharp angles…every 90° bend loses 5% of heat, so therein lies the secret to a good system heating. in the pipeline.
Lastly, think about the exhaust outlet. If you keep the fenders on the bow balcony, placing the exhaust next to them will melt them in seconds. And remember, the exhaust needs a gooseneck to prevent water from entering the heater.
Boat heating system
It is good practice to run the ducts along the top edge of the lockers to prevent them from being crushed by heavy objects during navigation. Boat builders expect some form of retrofitted heating, as holes in the tightest spots are often pre-cut at the factory. When attaching vents, always drill from the visible side to avoid damaging the exterior. Thermostat and control wiring must be routed through new knockouts before conduit. The dial control can be installed anywhere wiring allows, but imagine being able to turn the heat on and off without ever leaving the comfort of a warm bunk. Cover the duct with a plastic bag to prevent rough edges from tearing the heat pipe insulation, then insert two sleeves of insulation over the duct.
fuel system
The heaters use solenoid fuel pumps, so a riser pipe installed in the tank is needed. Since the pump cannot be raised higher than 1 m (3 ft 3 in), align the riser pipe and the tank, mark and break the copper pipe before gently bending it to join it to the pump, allowing two spirals on the pipe compensate for vibration. A second pipe, running from the heater to the pump, needs the same treatment.
Run a protective sleeve over the stainless steel tailpipe and fold a gooseneck over the top. Drill a pilot hole in the transom and once you are sure it is in the correct spot, pull out the exhaust fitting and place it against the transom to measure the correct angle for the hole.
Using a hole cutter with sharp teeth to prevent cracking of the gelcoat and enough marine sealant to ensure a tight fit, screw the liner into place.
Back at the transom, attach the exhaust and cut it to fit. Connect a short air intake tube to the heater to allow diesel combustion.
It’s a lot of work, so seriously consider whether you have the skills, tools, and time to get it right.
Plan the route of the ducts first and keep it as straight as possible: curves lose heat. Use the right tools, and when working in tight spaces, take everything you need with you.
Turn the angled leather accessories upside down and back to front to calculate the correct piercing angle.
Use a vacuum while drilling into the fuel tank to minimize debris entering the tank.